Tusk Envy

2 June, underway between PNG and Australia. We’ve departed PNG with the confidence of accomplishment, but a feeling of uncompleted work. Accomplishment in knowing that we gelled as an international military and NGO team, but uncompleted in knowing that we turned away hundreds of patients that wanted our services at each of the 3 clinical sites in Lae. Seeing the crush of a thousand patients waiting for us as we arrived each morning was daunting, and prompted us to search for ways to streamline our processes and increase our efficiency while maintaining quality medical care, engaging in personal/cultural exchanges with our patients, and teaching/learning from our host medical counterparts. We had been pleased with ourselves when we saw 900 patients on the 3^rd day in Lae, but on the last day we saw over 1700 patients at the 2 city sites we ran simultaneously - yet there were still hundreds who were turned away when the work day ended. Have I mentioned the heat and humidity? We gave emergency care to an older man who got in the queue at 2 AM and collapsed at 11 AM, apparently due to heat. We had some relief from the heat on the second to last day but that was because it rained for the first 2 hours - those of us working outside in pre-registration struggled to stay dry.

My last day was very fulfilling because I was assessing adult patients for back and knee pain (very common due to hard physical labor with few of the conveniences of first world countries) and, if not complicated by other medical conditions, giving them pain medication and teaching them strengthening and range of motion exercises. Whereas the patients at the countryside clinic brought us quantities of tropical fruits as gifts, the city patients brought us gifts of traditional necklaces and purses (bilum) carried by both men and women (see Flickr photos with bilum carried around the neck or used as a sling to carry a baby with the strap over the top of the head). The bilum colors and patterns signify the bearer’s tribe, and a few gift bilum were woven with possum fur. I was very honored to receive a unique necklace of shells with 2 boar tusks as pendants from a nurse who attended my back clinic (see Flickr photo). This necklace was declared the most impressive gift, and the men quickly developed tusk envy, even offering to trade a few bilum for the necklace. A unique gift from a nurse - no trade!!

I represented Project HOPE at the closing reception held on Cleveland’s flight deck for distinguished PNG visitors including government officials, business and civic leaders, and Australian military residents. It was a pleasant opportunity to talk to local residents about life in PNG since our liberty options on shore were limited to the Lae Yacht Club and the Melanesian Art Center (actually a cultural gift shop). Cleveland arranged with the Lae Yacht Club to allow a limited number of personnel to visit its gated facility during the last several days in port. A large covered deck overlooks a small marina (all power boats), and the galley and bar were open to purchase refreshments. A club member who owned one of the liberty boats hired by Cleveland to shuttle us to and from said that the wind is too light in the bay to interest most sailors. We did see a few locals sailing tiny outriggers, but I forgot my camera that day L so no photos to show you. The craft center was packed full of interesting masks, statues, jewelry, bilum, paintings, carvings, drums, etc. from various tribes and provinces in PNG. Sadly no photos of the center to share but I have photos of the pieces that I bought (see Flickr).

Our liberty port of Darwin, Australia is 5 days away, and there we’ll be saying farewell to the Canadian dental team and most of the Aussies who’ve been aboard for the first 2 rotations, as well as Army reservists and 4 HOPEies who joined us for the 2^nd rotation. We’ll be joined by their replacements for the final mission rotation to Timor Leste and Micronesia. While in Darwin I'll be going on an organized day tour to Litchfield National Park, and plan to visit one or both yacht clubs in Darwin. My liberty buddy to the clubs (a requirement to go ashore in a liberty port) also owns a sailboat so we're hoping to catch a ride on a boat with a club member. It’s hard to believe that I’m at the half-way point of my trip and 2/3 through the medical mission. During the first 3 weeks I questioned my sanity for volunteering to be on this old ship for 3 months, but now for better and for worse it is an adventurous home.
Cheers to all!